Having grown up on the Landes coast on the beaches of Capbreton Hossegor and Seignosse, after a career as a professional surfer and as a federal surf coach, I have more than 11 years of experience in the initiation of this sport and the training of high level surfers. I will try through this article, to give you as much information as possible so that you know where to go and evolve to discover the practice of surfing without worries.
Surf school or alone?;
Surf school of course!!!!!
The ocean is a changing and unpredictable natural environment, the Baines currents and the waves are omnipresent there, which leads to drownings every year on our Atlantic coast.
In addition, surfing is an extreme sport that is one of the hardest in board sports because you evolve in a moving marine environment with an unstable support, so being supervised will save you time for your learning.
Supervision will also bring you safety, the strength of the waves, the weight of the board, other surfers, many factors can lead surfers who are beginning to be afraid or injured. During a first session in a quality surf school with teaching instructors, you will be presented with a safety briefing on what to do and what not to do, as well as a technical briefing to explain how to start surfing and evolve without taking risks.
And finally the rules of priority, in surfing it's like on the road even if the ocean is for everyone, there are rules and we must respect them to avoid accidents. A state-certified BPJEPS surf option instructor from the French Surfing Federation will be in the best position to teach you.
So as a state-certified sports instructor and surfer from the region, leader of the surf school Les Vagues Surf School located Notre Dame Beach in Capbreton, I will necessarily tell you through a surf school, but I don't force you to take a lot of surf lessons, just what you need to have the basics of technique, safety and courtesy in the water so that you can start the adventure with pleasure without taking any risks, with respect values of this discipline.
Which Beach?
On the Atlantic coast of France, from the north in Finistère to the south-west in the Basque country, passing through Charente, Gironde and Landes, most of the beaches are ideal places for surfing and discovering the convenient. The coast is more or less oriented west, welcoming the Atlantic swells perfectly, allowing you to benefit from waves all year round.
We have two types of beaches on the coast, sandy beaches and rocky beaches.
To start, I recommend a sandy beach (Beach Breack) there are many along the coast. It's best to start with, you can learn to stand up and fall as many times as you want without hurting yourself.
Where and when should I surf?
- When the tide is out is the perfect time, the waves break away from the edge the foams come in slowly to give you time to catch them and stand up.
- Evolve near the edge in the foam (the white waves already broken) where you have your footing and keep the water at your waist. It will be easier for you to lie down on your board, you will be at a good distance to have time to get up on the board and in addition you will not be able to put yourself in danger with the current because you will have your feet.
- Alongside other surfers, you will see in the foam on the edge, surf schools as well as other beginners who are discovering the practice will be present. Make yourself a small place next to it and enjoy a safe session.
Where and when should I not surf?
- In the bathing areas (between the blue flags) this area is reserved for bathers.
- Near rocky groynes or cliffs, even if it seems accessible to you, the tides and currents change all the time and you could quickly find yourself in danger.
- When you don't see anyone in the water, it's often a sign that the conditions aren't good, don't take the risk!!!
- When the tide is high it is easy to see, the waves tend to break close to the edge. You will not have time to stand up and risk being crushed on the sand.
- If you see the famous red flag at the Rescuers hut, above all do not go into the water, this means that the conditions are impracticable for swimming and surfing in safety.
- When there is a storm, the ocean attracts lightning and the water is conductive so do not venture into the water when lightning shows the tip of its nose.
What conditions?
If you are a beginner or new to the practice, I recommend that you only surf when the swells are small, less than 1 meter and the wind is not too strong.
Of course, you can surf waves when the swell is bigger but it will be more physical than surfing. You just have to avoid getting disgusted or scared even if you are dying to go in the water, the ocean is unpredictable and the surfing is very difficult so you might as well go there when all the conditions are met to guarantee your pleasure and your success in safety.
Avoid stormy days, the swell is often strong, the current strong and moreover the force of the wind could send your board back towards you which can be dangerous.
I hope this information will be useful for your beginnings in surfing and that the article will help you.
See you soon in the water.
Benjamin Pilon
Les Vagues Surf School
